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propagating plants

# Cutting and growing houseplants 

The more plants, the better! You can super easily create your own urban jungle by cuttings and growing your own plants. Cuttings of plantlets is in difficult terms 'the vegetative propagation of your plants'. Sounds complicated, but the bottom line is that you can grow a new plant through your mature plant. The way you do this, again, depends on the type of plant. 

Propagate plants and fill all the empty spaces in your house with the little baby plants, give them the proper care and they will grow into beautiful, mature plants. Cuttings are not only super cheap but also a perfect activity for all the plant geeks among us. 

Ready to take on the cutting adventure? Read all about the different forms of cuttings and cultivation, which plants you can propagate super easily and what you need to be able to take cuttings from your plant. 

> 
## Houseplant cuttings 

There are many different ways to propagate your houseplant. Here we explain some of the most important cutting methods for houseplants! 

### Head cuttings 

Head cuttings are an easy form of cutting. A head cutting is the part that is taken from the end of a branch or the top of the mother plant. The young parts of a plant. These cuttings are best cut straight, above a leaf of the mother plant. Make sure that the cutting is about 15 centimeters, depending on the plant. Remove the bottom leaves so that half of the cutting is empty. 

Is your plant a difficult rooter? Then it is useful to wound the bottom centimeter of the cutting by making small cuts in it. An injured plant is triggered to develop and make roots faster. 
A head cutting can be placed directly into cutting soil or first allowed to root in water. Once the cutting has enough roots after about 6 weeks you can repot it in potting soil.

### Shoot cuttings

A shoot of a plant is a new stem with leaves, which is formed by the sprouting of a bud. These young shoots make great cuttings! Choose a few shoots from the summer cutting and carefully tear them off without damaging the stem. Remove the excess leaves from the bottom of the cutting with a sharp knife and make sure the part of the cutting that goes into the ground is completely bare. Also trim the bottom of the stem with a knife and place your new cutting in a pot with potting or cutting soil. Make sure the bottom leaves are just above the soil and press the soil gently. Ready to see your new cutting grow!

### Interplant cuttings

Interplanting is another way to propagate your plant. The principle is a bit the same as head cuttings, only here you don't use the end of the stem, but an intermediate piece. Make the cuttings up to 4 centimeters long and make sure that there is at least one leaf in it and that the stem at the bottom of the leaf is longer than above it. 

Plant your cutting and cover the pot with a piece of plastic. This way you will create a pleasant climate for your new, small cutting!

### Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings are a bit like head cuttings, except that you don't cut the cutting at the bud or leaf axil, but at the ground: as close to the root as possible. Also with this form of cutting you remove the lowest leaves and the top of the cutting. In this way you make sure that all energy goes to forming strong roots! Place the cutting in a filled pot with cutting soil and place them deep in the soil to just below the leaves.

### Eye cuttings

An eye cutting is an eye in the leaf axil that has not sprouted. An eye cutting consists of a leaf, a bud in a leaf axil and a small piece of stem. Do you want to make an eye cutting? Then always choose a sturdy, young shoot from leaves that are fully grown. 

This method is the same as that of interplant cuttings.

### Root Cuttings

This method is often used for propagating garden plants, but could also be done with houseplants. Choose a healthy, strong donor plant and make sure you expose the roots. Then cut off two roots just below the top of the root ball, then place the plant right back in the pot. Cut the cut roots into pieces of at least 5 centimeters and put them upright in a pot with fresh potting soil. Make sure that the roots do not rise above the soil. Give them a little time and before you know it there are young plants growing from your cuttings!

![Infograph EN.jpg[1748x993]](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/4ca65606e12ec69e52afd33ba8d2dc57.jpg)

### Leaf cuttings

You can take leaf cuttings in different ways, depending on the plant you want to propagate. In any case, the leaf serves as a starting point for your new cutting! From the leaf a root will start growing again and the cutting can develop. The main methods of leaf cuttings are:

#### 1. Cuttings with young plants on the leaf

This form of cuttings is completely natural and some plants take care of themselves. At the leaf's point of attachment a new leaf grows which will develop into a fully-fledged cutting. Once the cutting is fully grown it will fall off the mother plant and develop further in the soil. In no time a new, independent plant!

#### 2. Cuttings with complete leaf and stem

The easiest form of leaf cutting! Cut a leaf, including the stem of about 5 centimeters with a sharp knife and place it in a pot with cutting soil. Make sure the cutting is placed in the pot at a slight angle and the stem is completely in the soil. The leaf will stick out a bit. Pay attention to the leaf itself and try to damage it as little as possible. 

#### 3. Cuttings with part of the leaf

This method is often used with houseplants with beautiful, large leaves. Take a leaf of a healthy plant that is fully developed and undamaged. Lay the leaf face up on a cutting board and cut off the leaf edges. Then cut the leaf up into 2 by 2 centimeter pieces and place them top side up on the cutting soil in pot. Give them a little water and you will see that after about one and a half to two months new cuttings will come up! A tip: put a glass plate on top of the pot to increase the humidity. They like it!

### Laying off

A super easy cutting method is called 'layering'. Take an aerial root, branch or stem and bend it towards the ground as gently as possible until the top touches the ground. Make sure it hangs like this. The plant will notice that the tip is in contact with a new source of nutrients and will be eager to use it! From the branch, stem or aerial root she will shoot new roots into the ground which you can cut off from the mother plant after about a month. The cutting will have created enough roots to survive all by itself.

### Tearing

A plant that consists of several stems can usually be divided well by tearing it. It may sound a little scary, but tearing is a simple way to propagate a plant with immediate results. If your plant is getting too big for its pot and needs to be repotted anyway, that's a good time to rip your plant. Give the plant an extra sip of water a day before you get started. 

Carefully remove the plant from the pot and gently untangle the roots. Shake the soil out of the root ball and carefully pull the plant apart from the center in two or more pieces. You may not be able to pull the roots completely apart. Cut them carefully with a clean and sharp knife. Place the loose parts in new pots with fresh potting soil and give the plants a good splash of water. 

Sometimes it seems like your new plants won't survive, but often that's because the roots haven't fully recovered yet. Give them some time and you will see that your new plants will recover completely!

### Offshoots

Some plants make new baby plants themselves. We call these shoots. Sometimes even with roots and all. You can of course put these in their own pots! Take the plant out of the pot and try to damage the shoot including the roots as little as possible. You can also cut new shoots with a sharp knife from the mother plant close to the plants. Put the new cuttings in a pot with cutting soil and give them some water immediately. The first time you water your new plant from the top, but later you can also water from below on the saucer so that the roots also develop deep in the pot.


![Cuttings 1.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/b32eaabbd1c994c65bee56ff5f559c42.webp)


## What do you need to take cuttings?

If you are going to take cuttings it is best to do it in the spring at the beginning of a new period of growth. There is enough light and a pleasant temperature. In the months that follow your plant will get the chance to grow and develop. In the winter months the days are just too short to grow well and it can be too dry in the house. Therefore it is better not to make cuttings in the fall or winter. 

Use soil for taking cuttings from your plants. This soil is often slightly finer than normal potting soil, so the fragile roots can grow undisturbed. It also contains few nutrients, because they are too aggressive for the little ones. 

Besides cutting soil, spaghnum moss, perlite and water are also perfect for taking cuttings. Because the cuttings often do not have roots yet you need to keep them moist. Therefore you can also put them under a foil with holes, in a plastic bag (as a mini greenhouse) or in a greenhouse so little water evaporates. When the soil or substrate becomes dry you can spray the cuttings with the plant sprayer. After a while, usually when the roots are about 8 centimeters or longer, you can repot the young plants in pots with potting soil with more nutrition. You can also use cutting powder to make the cutting root faster. 

For your cuttings you can use all kinds of handy tools that we sell in our shop!

- Cuttings soil (or one of the other substrates);
- Pruning shears;
- Water meter;
- Grow light;
- Watering can;
- Plant sprayer;
- Moss stick or plant guide;
- Terracotta pots

## Tips for taking cuttings from houseplants

The most important thing if you are going to cut your houseplants is the basics! For most plants, the best time to take cuttings is in the spring. There is enough light and warmth for your cuttings to root and grow properly. Do you have a greenhouse or a grow light? Then you can also take cuttings in the colder period! 

Before taking cuttings it is also important that the mother plant is strong and healthy. This will make it easier for your cuttings to grow. Always use clean material when taking cuttings: this prevents diseases, fungi or bacteria from other plants being transferred to your new, young cutting. 

Inexperienced in taking cuttings? Then start with an easy plant to take cuttings from!


## Easy plants to take cuttings from

Some plants are harder to take cuttings from than others. The most popular plants are super easy to propagate so you can turn your house into a green jungle or do someone else a favor. Would you like to start with an easy plant that grows quickly and forms roots easily or do you have one of the following beauties in the house? Then we would like to give you a hand with your plant cuttings!

### Monstera cuttings

A Monstera is super easy to take cuttings from. Monstera's make aerial roots. Depending on the species these are (long) roots that grow on the stems of the plant. To be able to take cuttings from a Monstera you need to have a leaf, a stem and an aerial root. To do this, cut about two centimeters below the aerial root. Use sharp scissors or a knife for this.

Now that you've cut your cutting, it's time to plant it! You can choose to put your cutting in water or plant it directly into the soil. Fill a vase with lukewarm water and put your cutting in it. Change the water every so often when it starts to get cloudy. The nice thing about taking cuttings in water is that you can keep an eye on the progress of the roots. Do you see that the roots are growing well? Then after a while it's time to plant the cutting in the soil. Keep in mind that your plant has been hanging in the water all this time and needs to get used to her roots in the soil. Keep the soil nice and moist during the first weeks: it will grow well!

You can also place your cutting directly into potting soil or cutting soil. Fill a pot with soil and make sure it is a bit moist. Stick your finger into the soil and make a hole that fits your cutting perfectly. Place the cutting firmly in the ground and give it extra love and attention in the coming time. In this way she will grow into a beautiful Monstera!

### Pilea cuttings

The Pilea, better known as the Pancake plant, is hard to imagine life without! Taking cuttings from this popular plant is very simple. Did you spot a small baby plant at your Pilea? Then you've got your cutting! They grow completely separate from the mother plant. Dig out the little plant and cut it off as close to the stem of the mother plant as possible: this way you make sure you take along as many roots as possible. Pot the whole plant in a new pot with fresh potting soil and give it a splash of water. In no time your new plant will have baby plants of its own!

### Banana plant cuttings

Do you have a Musa Dwarf Cavendish, or Banana Plant, at home that you shower with love and attention? If so, your banana plant may just be making a baby plant cutting! This cutting usually grows on the stem of the mother plant, forming its own roots. We know you're excited about this little cutting, but we advise you not to take it away from its mother too soon. When your cutting has about 4 to 5 leaves it's time: your plant is ready to be staked!

Remove the Banana plant from its pot and dig out the cutting as far as possible. Do this very carefully, without damaging the roots. Take a sharp knife and cut the cutting, as close to the large stem of the mother plant as possible. Make sure you cut as few roots as possible. Try to remove as much of the root ball as possible so you are left with a cutting with bare roots. Place the mother plant back in a larger pot with fresh potting soil so she can continue to grow nicely. 

You can also place the cutting in its own pot. Give her a good splash of water. You can also put some cutting powder on the roots, so she gets an immediate growth boost. Give the mother and baby plant lots of attention and you'll see that in no time there will be two beauties shining in your home!

### Sansevieria cuttings

The Sansevieria, or Queen's tongue, can be cut in two ways. From leaves or by tearing. Do you have a lot of patience? Then you can go for the first option. You cut a broken leaf of your Sansevieria in pieces of about 5 to 10 centimeters. Pay attention to what the top and bottom is. Dip the underside in some cutting powder and place them in the soil. This method requires a lot of patience: it can take up to a year for something to happen! 

Not so patient? Then tearing is a better option. A Sansevieria grows its strong roots and leaves deep into the potting soil, with all leaves having separate roots. Remove the plant from the pot and carefully dig away some potting soil around the roots. Tear off the leaves you want to cutt, trying to damage the roots as little as possible! This feisty lady has strong roots that you can immediately put back into a new pot with potting soil. Give her a little water and your cutting is complete!

### Succulents cuttings

Perhaps the easiest species to propagate: succulents! With the leaves of a succulent you can take cuttings. Carefully twist off a leaf and place the leaf in the soil. Eventually it will grow roots and even a new plant! 

Do you have a large succulent in your home? Then you can also choose to stem cuttings. With a clean and sharp knife, cut off a side branch of the plant and you have a cutting! Before you plant your cutting it is best to let it dry for a while. This gives time for a crust to form over the cut, which reduces the chance of your cutting rotting. After drying, plant the cutting in a pot with potting compost or cutting soil, and you can start waiting for a beautiful succulent...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWlnhr65QO8

Cutting and growing

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# Hanging leaves 

Hanging leaves is a common problem you may encounter when taking care of your plants. While you may think that the plant just needs a big gulp of water, there are super many reasons why your plant looks so glum. So be careful and first try to figure out why your plant is drooping its leaves. 

Usually, houseplants let their leaves droop when they are under water. Other causes include temperature stress, a pest or disease, low humidity, or problems with nutrition. We are happy to help you solve your plant problem!


> 
## Why does my plant get droopy leaves?

All plants use some sort of water pressure in their leaves and stems to keep the plant standing proudly. The strength and structure is determined by this. There is a continuous supply of water from the roots all the way to the tips of the leaves. A drooping leaf is actually the loss of this pressure in the stems and leaves. Usually this happens because of an unnatural balance between water intake in the roots and water loss through transpiration. So excessive or underwatering is one of the biggest causes of drooping leaves, but there are other factors that cause your plant to droop its leaves too!


![Hangend.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/34362f997163a37a632ac6b50b5bfed2.webp)


### Not enough water

Let's start with the most obvious cause of drooping leaves. If you don't water your plant enough, the soil will become dry and there won't be enough water for the roots to absorb. The water that the plant absorbs will also leave the plant through transpiration. Eventually the pressure in the stems and leaves, turgor pressure, will decrease to the point where the leaves will droop. 

Fortunately, this cause is very easy to recognize. If you have not watered your plant for a while you can check if the soil is dried out. Stick a finger in the soil and check whether the soil is dry there too. Is that the case? Then the cause of drooping leaves is probably too little water. Sometimes you can even see brown, hard leaf edges or leaf tips forming! Give your plant a nice splash of water and take a step back: hopefully your plant will soon shine again!


### Too much water
With too little water we indicated that the plant cannot absorb water, causing the leaves to droop. Actually, exactly the same thing happens when you overwater your plant, but for different reasons! 

When you give your plant too much water it will first show the familiar signs, such as yellow leaves. If you persist in overwatering your plant, root rot may occur! With dead roots, the plant cannot absorb water and will therefore become very thirsty. This will cause the same principle as giving too little water: the pressure in the stems and leaves will decrease causing the leaves to droop.

So over-watering is a serious problem! If the soil of your plant is always soggy, the pot is poorly drained or the soil is very poorly drained then the risk of root rot and therefore hanging leaves is high. Therefore, always check the soil before giving your plant a sip of water and keep an eye out for signs of root rot.


### Temperature

Besides water problems, temperature is also an important cause of drooping leaves. Temperature stress in plants is caused by large differences from the plant's "normal" temperature. Prolonged exposure to extreme temperature can eventually cause a plant to droop!

#### Heat

Extreme heat can cause direct damage to the plant. In fact, leaves can also burn! The most likely cause of drooping leaves in extreme heat is that the warm temperatures lead to increased transpiration and thus water loss. The plant is super thirsty, but its roots simply cannot handle the demand for water. This will cause the leaves to droop. 
Is your plant in a place where it gets a lot of direct sunlight or is it near a heater? Then pay close attention to the health of the plant. The soil dries out much faster so you have to adjust the watering to the needs of the plant. Do you think your plant is in a place that is too warm? If so, move her to another spot. Most plants thrive best in a bright spot with indirect sunlight.

#### Cold

Cold or drafts can also do direct damage to your plant. The plant is more susceptible to diseases and pests which can damage the roots. Without functioning roots, your houseplants cannot absorb water, resulting in drooping leaves. So make sure your plant is not in a draft!


### Pests and diseases

Insects that drink the sap of your plant can lead to drooping leaves. Especially mealy bugs, aphids, spider mites or thrips are culprits. A few insects are not a problem, but a large infestation can lead to leaf damage, drooping leaves and eventually the end of your plant! 

Is your plant getting droopy leaves? Then check the plant carefully for pests. These can often be seen with the naked eye, but a small magnifying glass is super handy to check properly. Think you've spotted a bug? Then read all about the pest on the PLNTS doctor page. 

Tip: Make it a habit to regularly check your plants for plant pests. This way you will be on time and the infestation is easy to control!

### Humidity

Our houses are nowadays super well insulated. Many houseplants still need a humidity level that is slightly higher than normal in our homes. Some plants are real princesses and will let you know when the humidity is not optimal. They will hang their leaves! 

Do you have a plant that likes a little humidity? Then try to meet its needs as best as possible. Use a humidifier, place the plants close together or put them in the bathroom! This way they will not let their leaves droop.


### Nutrition

Giving nutrition can also be a possible cause of drooping leaves. Giving too much plant food is especially problematic. We understand that it is tempting to give your plant a little more nutrition so that it grows bigger and prettier than ever. Unfortunately, it doesn't quite work that way! Too much nutrition can seriously damage the roots, causing drooping leaves. 



Hanging leaves

15 essential tools for every plant parent

Banner 15 essential tools for every plant parent

# Light requirements houseplants 

Just like us, some plants love to be in the sun and others prefer a place with a little more shade. The light requirement of your plant is very important, because it determines how your plant looks and how fast it grows. The location of a plant also affects its watering, so there are a lot of factors to take into account!


> 
## How much light does my plant need? 
The origin of the plant in question actually determines how much light the plant needs. Many houseplants come from tropical regions and are therefore used to a lot of light, warm temperatures and high humidity. They prefer to grow up in a similar environment.
### Sun
Putting your plant in a sunny place, but what exactly is meant by a sunny place? A sunny place for a plant is a place where your plant gets up to 5 hours of sunlight. This is often a location in front of a window facing south, west or east with a distance of up to 2 metres. A sunny position naturally has an influence on the water requirements, as these will increase. In fact, it is comparable to people; at tropical temperatures we also need more litres of water.

Keep in mind that too much sunlight can burn the plant. Of course sun cream won’t do the trick on your darling. Make sure that you place your plant a little further from the window when you see signs of burning. Symptoms of burning can be brown spots or dry leaf edges.

### Partial shade 
One of the trickiest descriptions when it comes to light requirements is half-shadow. Yet this is a requirement for most plants. In a full tropical jungle many plants grow on top of each other. As a result, most plants do not get the full sun, but only a few rays of light through all the vegetation. We can therefore describe partial shade as a place where your plant receives 3 to 5 hours of sunlight. This is often a location about 2 to 3 metres from a window or directly in front of a window facing north.

### Shade
A major misconception about the location of shade is that your plant receives no light at all and is therefore literally in the shade. Shaded plants do need light for photosynthesis, only at a much lower intensity. Shade can therefore be typified as a place where your plant receives less than 3 hours of sunlight. For example, a place further than 3 metres from the window or in front of a north-facing window.
#
**Tip:** the further you place your plant from the window, the lower the light intensity.

Do you want to know how much light your beauty has? On our PLNTSdoctor page you will find an overview of [care for each plant family](/care/houseplants-family). Here you can see for each family how much light they need.





![sunny.png{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/b4cadf55ab2976375ff53fb9e092eef7.png)





## Sunny plants 
You may be a sun lover or not, but plants can be dangerous too. To prevent burning, it is important to let your new plant get used to the sun in your home and then gradually move it closer to the window. The plants listed below do not mind being literally put in the sun.

### Strelitzia Nicolai
The [Strelitiza Nicolai](/product/strelitzia-nicolai) is a true tropical plant that is not allergic to a little sunlight. This beautiful 'bird of paradise' plant often impresses with its gigantic length, which is partly due to the amount of light. In a somewhat darker place she will also be fine, but the more light this lady receives the more you stimulate her growth!

### Monstera Adansonii
Like the rest of its plant family, the [Monstera Adansonii](/product/monstera-adansonii) likes a lot of light. Be careful with full sun as its leaves are vulnerable and burn quickly. A bright spot with indirect light is perfect. Do you want to brighten up your bathroom and does it get enough light? This beauty goes down very well in a humid area, that way it feels completely at home!

### Musa Dwarf Cavendish
This popular 'Banana Plant' is a real sun worshipper. They grow all over the world in places with high humidity and lots of sun! It does well in a little more shade, but do you want it to grow really well? Then put [Musa Dwarf Cavendish](/product/dwarf-cavedish-musa) in the sun! An ideal eye-catcher if you have a larger space to fill. 

Oops, have your babies been in the sun a little too long? You will see some scorched leaves. Cut off the affected leaves and move your plant to a place with a little more shade.





![Light requirements 2.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/c6e0449aaf5bd47f90e632dcb27b011a.webp)




## Partial shade plants
Most plants grow best in partial shade, because of the origin of the plants. Besides, half-shadowing is always good. Your plant will not receive too much, but also not too little light. Here are some easy types for the half-shadow.

### Scindapsus Pictus Trebie
This cutie has a beautiful heart-shaped leaf with silver-coloured markings. Okay okay back to the subject, its light requirements, semi-shade. In more light, the leaves of the [Scindapsus Pictus Trebie](/product/scindapsus-pictus-trebie-m) will become lighter and in a place with more shadow a little darker. An easy lady to grow on hydroponics!

### Peperomia Pepperspot
This cool hanging plant originates from the warm, shady Amazon region. Here, many plants grow through and over each other so that they do not receive full light. This is why the [Peperomia Pepperspot](/product/peperomia-pepperspot-m) will appreciate a semi-shaded spot in your home.

### Areca Lutescens
The [Areca Lutescens](/product/areca-xl), also known as 'Butterfly Palm', is a true tropical plant. Its appearance gives your home real jungle vibes, but its care also clearly shows that this is a plant from the tropics. Not too much light, just a few rays here and there, so that she grows into a nice big houseplant!




![Light requirements 3.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/a5bdec3c3a0c49a916414245db1ab432.webp)



## Shade plants
You would think that everyone would love to be in the sun? Yet there are a lot of plants that really can't cope with this. On the other hand this is also very nice, because then the dark spots in our house can be filled up. Examples of plants that can survive in low light include: 

### Calathea Makoyana
This motile plant is also known as the peacock plant. This is because of its beautifully coloured leaves in the shape and pattern of a feather! The [Calathea Makoyana](/product/calathea-makoyana-l) likes to grow in a place with a little less light, so that its beautiful leaves do not become dull. It would be a shame if this beautiful leaf would discolour, wouldn't it?

### Spathiphyllum Diamond Variegata
The [Spathiphyllum Diamond Variegata](/product/spathiphyllum-diamond-variegata) is all you need, because everybody knows: diamonds are a girl's best friend! Besides that, it is very easy to take care of. It will do fine in a darker spot in the house, because this special lady is used to that from her origin: the Amazon region. Would you like to bring out the variegated leaves (light stripes) in this plant? Then put her in a lighter spot.

### Sansevieria Fernwood Mikado
This family is known to be indestructible, except with too much water. As a desert plant, the [Sansevieria Fernwood Mikado](/product/sansevieria-fernwood-mikado-m) can, however, do very well in a shady spot. Be aware, however, that when plants receive less light, the colours of their leaves can change too. This spiky lady's tough tiger stripes will become less visible when in shade.

## Light hacks for houseplants
Many plants show by their appearance that something is wrong. Maybe they are thirsty, or receive too much or too little sun, you name it. 

When a leaf turns yellow it probably receives too much light. When your pride drops leaves, it is probably not getting enough light, also when you notice that it has not grown for a while it probably doesn’t receive enough light.

With these symptoms you can already solve a lot about light. Does this not solve your problem? Then read the other topics on our PLNTSdoctor page to reach a conclusion.



Light requirements

# Plant nutrition for indoor plants

Spring is the period when plants awaken from their winter sleep. And after such a long 'break' they are quite hungry.

From March to October it is therefore important to give your plants extra power to grow! The best 'growth-power' consists of a special mix of very balanced minerals and fertilizers that you add to your water every week. This will make your plants grow bigger and produce beautiful new (shiny) leaves.

We love plants and want all our plants to grow strong and beautiful. We like to go the extra mile... Together with plant experts we have therefore put together a special PLNTS nutrition. One that is full of 'growing power' and is absorbed by the roots of your plant super-quickly, so that it can enjoy it as soon as possible.

> 
## How much plant nutrition do you use?

It is important to us that our nutrients help your plants grow, but it is just as important that they are 100% biodegradable. In addition, our PLNTS food is super concentrated as you only need a small cap in 1 liter of water!

250 ml - will feed your PLNTS for seven months*.
 
500 ml - can feed you for over a year*.

*calculated with one liter of water per use

*Oh, and before we forget... the PLNTS nutrition is also very suitable for semi hydro.*


![fertiliser_header_campaign-1920x555.jpg{1920x555}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/98c7d43b40e2bd94f95f333dd6aa49a8.jpg)


## Here's how this magical mix works...

N Nitrogen 5.50 %, P2O5 Phosphorus Pentoxide 1.70 %, K2O Potassium oxide 4.00 %, CaO Calcium oxide 4.30 %, MgO Magnesium oxide 3.20 %.
######

- Nitrogen (N) ensures cell growth and respiration of the plant so your plant stays healthy and grows nicely.
- Phosphate (P) ensures good seed formation and root growth.
- Potassium (K) ensures sturdy cells, and good water balance in the plant.
- Magnesium (Mg) ensures a nice leaf color
- Calcium (Ca) provides a strong structure so you get a strong plant that can take a beating.
######

The PLNTS nutrient contains a high concentration of N-P-K (6-2-4), which is professionally calibrated and much higher than most brands. The nutrient is also full of so-called 'trace elements' that ensure that all processes in your plant work optimally. Think of the formation of flowers and fruits and the nitrogen absorption and processing by your plant. These ingredients are: Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Zinc (Zn) and Molybdenum (Mo).

Plant nutrition

# Potting soil and substrates

Do you consciously think about the substrate your plant is standing on? Very well! This does not happen very often. It is of course true that when you buy a plant it often just sits in a pot with potting soil and looks great in it. Most people change as little as possible to the circumstances of their new green friend. This is a good thing, because it is nice for a plant to get used to the conditions of your home for a week or two. However, after those two weeks there are a lot of different options to choose from when it comes to substrates. This is a really important choice for the ultimate growth of your plant. Therefore we would like to go through the different options with you!


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## The different substrates for your houseplant
### Potting soil
For many houseplants, an organic potting soil is a good base to grow in. Potting soil works well as a basic substrate for a wide variety of houseplants. The standard potting soil that you can find in all garden centers is often a ready-made mix. This mix already consists of a number of substrates and substances to ensure that the soil has a good structure, but also contains enough nutrients. Usually you will find peat, peat bark, coconut, natural organic fertilizers and other similar ingredients in such a mix. [Our favourite potting soil](/product/potting-soil-3-liter) is composed with care and contains the following ingredients and substances:
- Peat moss
- Irish fraction (peat chunks)
- Peat fibre
- Right amount of lime (this ensures the right PH value and is a source of calcium)
- Important nutrients (NPK - nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium)
- Trace elements mix (substances that are absorbed by the plant in very small quantities)

This potting soil is a special PLNTS.com mix and so the perfect additions have been carefully considered to ensure that your plants can grow perfectly. 


### Perlite granules
Perlite grains are actually small glass particles, very light and full of air. It originates from volcanic areas and expands tremendously when heated to about 1300°C. This happens because the bubbles of air in the rock then escape. [Perlite](/product/perlite-grains) ensures that the roots of your plant develop better and that the plant grows more beautiful and better. Perlite in your potting soil ensures that the oxygen supply to the roots is stimulated. Besides the fact that perlite looks nice in your pot, the grains also add a drainage layer which means that moisture stays in the soil for less time. This prevents your beauty's feet from getting too wet and thus prevents root rot. Do you want to take cuttings from your green friends? Perlite is an ideal basis for this! Please note: when using Perlite, dust is released that is essentially very small glass particles. So make sure you keep something in front of your mouth or mix outside to prevent damage to your lungs. 

### Vermiculite
Vermiculite is a high-quality clay that expands like a harmonica when heated and therefore produces very light grains. Vermiculite is non-toxic, sterile and does not deteriorate over time. It can absorb three or four times its weight in water and also attracts various plant nutrients, such as potassium, magnesium and calcium. Vermiculite can be used alone when taking cuttings or can be mixed with potting soil. Vermiculite is very similar to perlite, but is less porous.




![Potting 1.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/bb7fceb0bd763099ff620bb3016a0286.webp)



### Pumice
Pumice is very similar to perlite in their ability to absorb excess moisture and provide ideal airflow for the roots. Because pumice has many holes, it can store fertilizer quite well, making it great for feeding your plant. Where perlite is a volcanic glass, pumice is a volcanic rock. Pumice is a great growing substrate for your cuttings.

### (French) Tree Bark
[French tree bark](/product/french-bark-1-liter) is a multifunctional material that not only does well in the garden. Your houseplants will be very happy with it too. The material helps to maintain the humidity of the potting soil, but especially for an airy structure. Tree bark is used especially frequently in soil intended for Anthuriums and Orchids (Epiphytes). These are plants that like to grow up against another plant and are therefore used to a lot of air near the roots. By adding tree bark to your potting soil, the plant has something to 'grab onto', thus bringing a lot of air into the soil and over time being digested by soil organisms which in turn provides useful nutrients. 

### Cocopeat
Cocopeat is a waste product from coconut products, where only the milk, the meat and the hard bark are used. After a desalination treatment, among other things, this grit turned out to have very good properties to be processed in potting soil. [Cocopeat](/product/cocopeat-1-liter) is very finely ground and therefore perfect as a substrate in potting soil to improve soil texture, soil aeration and moisture retention capacity. These are 3 very important improvements and therefore certainly a very good substrate.

This cocopeat is also super for germinating seeds and as a cutting soil. This is because it can hold moisture well and thus maintain an ideal condition for your young plant or for germinating seeds. When you put the cutting, seeds or maybe even your plant only in cocopeat, make sure you add enough nutrients. Cocopeat has no nutrient buffer in it.

### Coconut Fiber
These resilient coconut fibers provide optimal soil ventilation. It therefore provides an airy structure and transports water through the root system. Because coconut fibers are completely organic, they also increase the organic content of the soil. A good potting soil for your plants must be able to drain off excess water quickly, store enough water for dry periods and it is important that the soil is well aerated. [Coconut fiber](/product/coco-fibres-1-liter) ensures that all of this happens! Your plants will therefore be very happy with this addition to their potting soil.

The name says it all - coconut fiber is a product of the coconut, namely the outer bark of the coconut. Coconut fiber is considered one of the best substrates, but it cannot be used directly from nature because of its very high salt content (so don't go picking a coconut bare yourself ;)). Coconut fiber has the advantages that it absorbs water better than potting soil and is more environmentally friendly. We recommend that you use a maximum of one third coconut fiber in a potting soil mixture. Unfortunately, you cannot let a plant grow in coconut fiber alone, because coconut fiber does not contain any fertilizers which your plant needs to grow well.

### Peat chunks
Peat is a wet, oxygen-deficient soil type with a sponge-like structure composed of plant material. All peat types are naturally acidic. Lime must therefore be added to achieve the right PH value for plants. Peat is a super important component of potting soil. Especially these [peat chunks](/product/peat-chunks-1-liter) are good to add to potting soil. This creates an airy potting soil that can absorb water well and retain moisture. It also buffers nutrients more easily. It therefore ensures good root development and a beautiful growing plant. Actually all plants will be happy with this addition!



![Potting 2.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/0afcea30daf737728b15522f5c978848.webp)


### Active charcoal
Charcoal is a super addition. It actively absorbs excess moisture and gives it back on dry days, acting as a kind of moisture regulator in the soil. In addition, water-soluble nutrients are collected on unburned particles, consisting of humus and fertilizer, which are also very useful for plants. [Charcoal](/product/active-charcoal-60-gram) helps hold the loose soil, improves porosity and permeability of the soil. Activated carbon is perfect for when you want to plant your new addition in a pot without a drainage hole. Applying a layer of activated charcoal to the soil, under the soil, protects the plant from overwatering. In addition, it even absorbs toxins to protect the soil and roots from bacteria and fungi. Repelling some insects is its other superpower, making it a real life saver! This also makes activated carbon perfect if you want to make your own terrarium.

### Hydro grains
Hydro grains makes taking care of your plants much easier. Hydro grains are small, lightweight clay pebbles that absorb moisture not only from the soil, but also from the roots! Place them on the bottom or top of the soil so that excess water is evenly distributed throughout the soil. The solution for pots without drainage holes. In addition, the small grains loosen the soil. This provides the roots with more oxygen, so your beauty will look its best! [Hydro grains](/product/hydro-grains-1liter) may look fragile, but they can be used over and over again. They are actually indestructible, so definitely worth buying! Hydro grains are also widely used in hydroponics and are ideal for that as well. 

### Sphagnum moss
Sphagnum moss improves the structure of potting soil. This macho plant can hold up to 20 times its own weight in water! This keeps the potting soil always moist, which is especially appreciated by many tropical plants. Mix, for example, 1/5 sphagnum moss into the potting soil of your tropical plant and the soil will be less likely to dry out. The more [sphagnum moss](/product/spaghnum-moss-1liter) in your mix the better and longer it will retain moisture. We also find sphagnum moss perfect for cuttings, put your cuttings in the moss and they will root super. When the cutting is rooted (root of 8cm or longer) it is advisable to move it to soil. If you have some moss left over, let's get creative! Because of its flexible shape you can easily make your own (hanging) basket or moss stick with it!

### Living Moss
Living moss is an ideal substrate to use for terrariums, orchids and cuttings. It is moist and airy so the roots grow extra fast. Roots develop very well in moist moss and living moss is therefore ideal for plants with fewer roots or your cuttings. Of course you can also use [living moss](/product/living-moss-350-gram) for other creative purposes, it is ideal for your terrarium or to make your own kokedama ball. To maintain that beautiful green color, it is best to use filtered water. Otherwise there is a chance it will turn brown.



![Potting 3.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/ecbaacf022371b208ae804c211ebec51.webp)



### Cuttings soil
We understand only too well that you want to expand your PLNTS family and grow your own babies! [Cuttings soil](/product/cutting-soil-1-liter) is perfect for rooting cuttings and eventually growing them into true doubles of your mother plant. It has a fine, compact and regular structure, which ensures an even water and nutrient supply and therefore prevents dehydration. When your cutting has developed good roots, you can repot it in normal potting soil or, of course, compose a nice mix. Our cutting soil is specially mixed so that, in our opinion, it is perfect for every cutting! These are the ingredients of our cutting soil:
- Peat moss
- Perlite
- Coco peat
- Important nutrients


### Vulcastrat
Vulcastrat is a substrate that is often used professionally. It is a mixture of minerals such as lava and pumice. It absorbs moisture, lots of moisture! It can absorb water up to 30cm upwards, so there is little chance of water staying at the bottom of the pot. This prevents roots from rotting, which is great. The water is gradually released to the plant by the Vulcatrat. The rough structure also allows enough oxygen to reach the roots, making it easier for roots to grow through. Vulcastrat is a mix of various volcanic rocks and is used as a substrate in hydroponics. It contains no fertilizers, so you should think about giving extra nutrition. 

### Pon (Vulcaponic / Lechuza pon)
Pon is basically a smaller form of Vulcastrat, but with added fertilizer. It is a brand name and better known than Vulcastrat due to Lechuza's good marketing. The only difference between Vulcaponic and Vulcastrat is that Vulcaponic contains more zeolites, this ensures that this substrate can absorb even more water and has better air pores. Lechuza pon does contain coated fertilizers and is therefore provided with nutrients, so you can go ahead the first few months!

## Which substrate to use for what?

We understand that after all the explanations per substrate you still have questions. What exactly is really good for what? We would like to help you! Below you will find, in our opinion, what is the best substrate to use for what. For example, the best for an airy structure, the ideal moisture regulator, what filters impurities from your soil and what is very good for cuttings. Note: this is based on our opinion. You may have a different preference and experience it differently in the end.




![Tabel soorten potgrond.jpg{993x430}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/31472df2ac2a7664d0e7c4ceca8a65a2.jpg)



## What is the best potting soil mix for your plant?
The special needs of the plant determine which potting soil is best to choose. The soil structure and nutrients are super important. To get healthy, strong plants, the potting soil must meet the special needs of the plant. For example, in addition to a good soil structure, certain nutrients and lime are also needed, in order for the plant to grow and develop. We hope the following information will help you find the perfect mix for your green friend. 



![Tabel potgrond & plant.jpg{933x430}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/62d8e8a3c7c39fc4e4c815959ec6e335.jpg)


Potting soil and substrates 

# Pruning houseplants
An indoor plant needs to be pruned less regularly than an outdoor plant. Still, you should get out your pruning shears once in a while to freshen up your plant. Dead branches or yellow leaves are cut away to keep the appearance of your plant beautiful, but pruning your houseplant has more advantages! For one, you can encourage a balanced growth pattern for your plant and make sure your plant doesn't proliferate around the room. It's important to know which houseplants like pruning, when to prune them and how to do it. This way, you'll make sure your green friend doesn't experience stress after the pruning!

## Which houseplants need to be pruned?

Pruning a houseplant is not a requirement to keep the plant alive. For each plant species, the reason for pruning can vary. For example, most houseplants, shrubs and trees are pruned back to keep them nicely trimmed and prevent sprawl. They bloom more beautifully if they are pruned in the right way. In the case of fruit trees, the yield is even better when they are pruned. 

However, removing yellowed, brown or dead leaves and stems is a must! The energy of a houseplant is divided among all the leaves, so also the leaves that unfortunately can no longer be saved. If you prune these away, the healthy leaves get all the energy they need and deserve instead of the energy being wasted on leaves that are beyond saving anyway. 

Some plants grow super fast and could use a trim every once in a while to stop them from proliferating. The Monstera Adansonii and the Schefflera Arboricola are examples of plants that are easy to prune and will grow more as a result!

### Pruning Monstera Adansonii

In principle a Monstera Adansonii does not need to be pruned. However, the plant grows fast, so if you find that the plant is getting too big, then you can easily prune it back. Do this in the growing season. Then your houseplant is in its growing phase and can recover faster from its pruning. 
Remove the tendrils of the plant if there are few leaves on them and do not forget to remove the yellow, brown or even dead leaves and stems. 

The Adansonii is also very easy to take cuttings from. So look carefully between all the pruning waste to see if there are usable pieces in it! In no time you will have another adult plant. How nice is that?

### Pruning the Schefflera Arboricola 

The Schefflera are houseplants that are super easy because they thrive in moderate light. They are also hardly susceptible to pests. However, they do sometimes need to be trimmed if they become too large or just bald. Would you like your Schefflera to regain its full, compact shape? Then cut off the long branches up to the trunk. This will ensure that the trunk gets more sunlight over the winter, so that new branches can sprout in the spring to make your Schefflera houseplant fuller!

## When should houseplants be pruned?

Most houseplants are pruned at the beginning of the growing season. This is in late winter or early spring. Woody houseplants are an exception to this and should be kept up throughout the year to remove dead leaves and branches. 

Do you have a flowering houseplant? If so, a good rule of thumb is to prune the plant just after they have finished flowering. If you prune the plant before it starts to bloom, you could accidentally remove unopened buds, and that's a shame, of course!

## How should houseplants be pruned?

You can prune a houseplant to determine its size, shape and health. The best way to prune your houseplants is to make sure you make a tight cut and don't crush the stems. Therefore, make sure you use a sharp knife or pruning shears. The [Edward pruning shears](/product/edward-pruning-shears) are the ideal scissors for cutting off twigs, dry leaves or flowers. Often, normal secateurs are too large for the smaller houseplants, so the chance exists that you accidentally cut off too much or the wrong thing, which is of course a shame! Edward is razor sharp, super small, namely about 11 cm and therefore easy to use!

So you prune a houseplant at the beginning of the growing season or when they have finished flowering. Do not prune the houseplant when there are still unopened buds on the stems. Look for leaves on the plant that are brown or discolored. They may also be drooping or dry. Use the pruning shears to cut them off just below the brown or dead part at a 45-degree angle. This will ensure that you can leave as much of the healthy leaves as possible. 

If a large portion of the leaves look dead, you can cut off the entire branch. When doing this, make sure that the main stem remains intact. For faded houseplants, also cut away the dead, brown and discolored flowers. 
Pruning the plant and removing dead branches, leaves and flowers will stimulate the growth of the plant! 

## Tips for pruning houseplants

Pruning a houseplant is not difficult, but there are a few tips we would like to give you to make sure you prune the plant the right way. A plant grows from the top down, which means that new growth emerges from the bud at the end of a branch or stem. To encourage new growth, cut off these so-called "dominant" buds. Prune some branches by a quarter, others by half, and still others up to the stem. In this way, the plant itself will start to follow a random growth pattern. 

When pruning, it is important that you work neatly and cleanly. Make sure your pruning shears are sterile by cleaning them with alcohol between 70% and 100%. You can do this by rubbing it clean with a cloth, spraying it or immersing it. Any cutting or trimming you do to the plant can expose it to disease! 

When you are pruned out, take a good look at the buds you have cut off. These can be used to make new cuttings! Put the cuttings in a cup of water and wait for them to grow roots. Then the cutting can be planted and is ready to grow!





![Pruning 1.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/34ca4758252136aad9e1502fd844341c.webp)


Pruning houseplants

banner photo with styled plants website

# Repotting

Your beauty likes to be repotted once in a while, because some plants grow really fast. Of course, repotting your plant is not mandatory, especially since there are some plants that just don't grow that fast. Here, we inform you why you should make your plant happy with repotting and, of course, when and how you should repot your plant.

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## Why should you repot a houseplant? 
There are several reasons why it is good to repot your plant. Below you can see some of the advantages:

### Stimulates growth
To make your plant grow well, it is especially important that the roots grow. Roots will only grow if they have room to do so. By repotting your plant into a larger pot, you ensure that the roots have more room to grow. 
By loosening your plant from its (breeding) pot you can easily see if it needs more space. If the roots build up around or under the clod, it is clearly time to repot your green friend. Do this next spring as repotting can have quite an impact on your plant as the roots can be damaged in the process. In spring, the growing season starts and it will recover faster from this.

### Fresh nutrients
Your plant gets a lot of nutrients from its potting soil and the fact is that fresh potting soil only has nutrients for about 6 weeks. Of course, you do not have to repot your plant every 6 weeks, so we help our green beauties by watering them and giving them [PLNTS nutrition](/product/plnts-nutrition-500ml) regularly. This will keep them going for a while, but nevertheless we advise to repot your plant once every two years. This also ensures that the potting soil remains airy and the chance of root rot is reduced.





![Repot 1.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/e9781aa598a4216b343ac3497faba078.webp)




## How to repot a houseplant?
By stimulating your plant to grow in height, you can repot her to a larger pot. Usually the diameter is about 20% bigger than the current pot. Do you not want her to grow bigger and keep her in the same size pot? Then repotting is also highly recommended. Refresh her potting soil so that she has enough nutrients for the coming period and place her back in its old, familiar pot.

### Repotting to a pot with drainage holes
To prevent problems with your plants, we always advise you to repot in a pot with drainage holes. With a pot like this, excess water can find its way out, so your roots are never under water and you prevent root rot. 
Before you repot your beauty, make sure that the soil is a little drier, which makes it easier to remove it from the pot. Prepare the new (larger) pot by filling it partly with [potting soil](/product/potting-soil-3-liter) or your favourite mix of substrates. Keep some room for your plant, of course. Take the plant out of its old familiar pot and carefully remove the old soil from the roots. Place the plant in the middle of the new pot and fill the rest of the pot with fresh soil. It is important that the soil is 1 to 2 cm below the rim of the pot.

### Repotting to a pot without drainage holes
It often happens that you see a pot and you are immediately sold. Unfortunately it has no drainage holes. Of course, this is no reason to leave him behind in the shop, as there is not much choice in pots with drainage holes.
One disadvantage of a pot without drainage holes is that any excess water cannot drain away, so there is a chance that the roots will be flooded. Unfortunately, this will not make your plant happy at all, as it would rather receive too little water than too much. Do you really want that particular pot without drainage holes? Consider giving less water to reduce the risk of root rot. A [water meter](/product/tessa-watermeter-l), for instance, can help you with that. This indicates when your plant is thirsty. You can also use various substrates that help you to absorb excess water, think for example of adding [hydro grains](/product/hydro-grains-1liter) to the bottom of the pot or mixing [perlite](/product/perlite-grains) with potting soil.



![Repot 2.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/53353f0b3aea5ff285e3371c443e385d.webp)


## When to repot a houseplant?
Spring is the most suitable time to repot houseplants. This is the moment the growing period starts. This period runs until approximately October. Your houseplant likes to be repotted in this period, because it has more energy due to the higher amount of light and of course the warmer temperatures. Repotting can have a big impact on a plant, because the roots are often damaged in the process. In the growing period your plant has much more energy to recover quickly from this damage.

## How do you see when a houseplant needs to be repotted?
By using transparent nursery pots you can easily see if your plant needs to be repotted. Of course, this isn’t very nice to see in your interior, but it is a good tip for keeping an eye on your cuttings.
With adult plants, we advise you to loosen your plant out of its pot once in a while to see how the roots are doing. Are they completely piled up around or under the clod? Then it would be nice to repot it the next spring. Do you always use nursery pots? When the roots emerge from the nursery pot longer than 10cm, it is time for a larger nursery pot. 



Repotting

PLNTS pot and plants styled

# Root rot

Root rot is a well-known problem that can kill a houseplant and has everything to do with the amount of water a plant receives. Do you notice that the condition of your plant is deteriorating, but you don't spot any nasty bugs in your plant? Then it could be that your plant is suffering from root rot. Fortunately, if you are on time, it is possible to save your plant. Read all about root rot here!

> 
## What is root rot?

Plants need water for strength, to grow, to transport nutrition and, when it is warm, to cool down by evaporation. So watering is super important, because without it a plant will die. Yet water is a bigger threat than you think.... In fact, too much water is one of the reasons many plants die! 

The amount of water your plant needs depends on the plant itself and the circumstances in which it will be placed. Take this into account and look carefully at the water requirements of your plant. 

Root rot is a root fungus and is caused by over-watering. The plant then cannot absorb all the water itself, so it sinks to the bottom of the pot. If the water has nowhere to go, it will find a way to go on its own. In most cases, all the excess water goes to the roots of the plant. Once too much water is absorbed by the roots, root rot can occur. The roots start to rot, become brittle and break down. Because the roots break down, at a certain moment the plant can no longer absorb water, oxygen and nutrition through the roots, and without these important things your plant cannot live... 

Root rot can have two causes. So one is prolonged exposure to too much water, which will cause the roots to die from lack of oxygen. Another source can be a fungus in the soil. The fungus can suddenly flare up if the plant gets too much water once or twice. The root rot fungus also affects the roots and causes them to die and rot away.


## How do I recognise root rot?

Root rot is often difficult to detect until the damage has already been done. Yellow leaves are often the first visible symptoms in root rot. You may also notice your plant's leaves turning brown and drying out. After some yellow spots appear on the leaves, the leaves will start to droop or even fall out! Also, the potting soil itself may have a musty, rotten smell.

In addition, root rot is very easy to recognise by soft, brown roots. The root system of a healthy plant is firm and white in color. If the soil is too soggy, fungi can easily spread. The result? The healthy parts of the root become brown and mushy. In this way, your plant is unable to absorb important nutrients, and the lack of these is clearly visible in the plant's leaves. 

![Root.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/cb2b6e5ca06abdbb905a91452627b53e.webp)



## How does root rot damage my plants?

A mistake that unfortunately many plant lovers make is that they water their plants too much. This is often the reason why a plant dies. If you regularly overwater your plants, the soil in the pot will always stay a bit moist or even wet. Most plants don't like this and therefore become more susceptible to fungi that attack the roots. 

The fungi damage the hair roots and roots so that the plant can no longer absorb water, oxygen and other nutrients. The roots can also rot. Do you give your plant really too much water and does the soil stay soaking wet? Then the soil will be so saturated that your plant will drown. 

![Yellow leaves .webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/38b6c9f53e819b4d8c4e5cee114aa096.webp)


## How can I prevent root rot?

Fortunately, root rot is super easy to prevent. It is simply a matter of the water requirements of the plant. How often and how much water your plant needs depends on the plant and the place where you put it. Check every day how the soil feels by sticking your finger into the soil and feeling whether the soil is moist or dry. Also take a good look at the needs of your plant and keep track of the days you watered: this way you can avoid making a mistake and accidentally water too much or too little. 

What is also super important and helps prevent root rot is soil drainage. The potting soil should not be too heavy or hold too much water. Fortunately, there are many substrates that you can mix into the potting soil that contribute to proper drainage. We are happy to help you create the perfect potting soil mix. In addition to the right potting soil, choose a pot with good drainage. Also keep an eye on the saucers under the houseplants: you should empty them regularly to prevent your plants from getting wet feet!


## How can I control root rot?

Does your plant have root rot? Then you have to persevere in order to save your little plant. Follow three simple steps and then give your plant a little rest. She needs to recover from the rescue action!

### Step 1. Loosening the plant 

Take your plant out of its pot and carefully remove as much soil as possible from the roots. You can shake the plant a little to make the soil come loose. The roots are fragile and delicate: be careful! It is no problem if you do not get rid of all the soil. As long as you can see the roots. Throw away the soil in which your plant stood immediately. Soon your plant will have delicious, fresh soil!

### Step 2. Cutting the roots

Is your plant completely out of the earth? Then check carefully whether the roots are damaged. You can tell by the color and strength. Healthy roots are white and firm, while rotten roots will be a bit mushy and brown. Carefully remove all the unhealthy roots. To do this, use a clean and sharp knife so you don't transfer bacteria to the healthy roots. 

### Step 3. Cut plant in half 

This step sounds a little exciting, but it makes super sense! Because you have probably cut away quite a few roots the ratio between the plant and the number of roots is not quite right anymore. Therefore, after you have removed all the unhealthy roots you can cut off part of the plant. Again use a sharp and clean knife. Then put the plant back in fresh potting soil and give the plant some time to recover.

*We believe in you, you can do this!*

Root rot

# Temperature and humidity for houseplants 

Whether you're just starting to keep and grow plants indoors or you already have an urban jungle, there are a few things you need to know about plant care. Even if you have a watering schedule or the perfect soil, you may not know the best temperature and humidity for houseplants. This is a detail that is often overlooked and that can cause your plants not to grow or not to survive. By keeping the temperature and humidity in your home ideal, you can create an optimal growing environment for your plant. Find out everything you need to know about the optimum temperature and humidity for your plants.

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## The ideal temperature for houseplants 
It will come as no surprise that your plants need the right temperature to grow. Photosynthesis only takes place optimally at the right temperature. Finding the right temperature is therefore very important. But what temperature is needed for what?

There is no perfect temperature for the cultivation/growth of plants. Instead, temperature is a variable value that you can change. Each plant species likes a different temperature. The most important thing is to make sure that the temperature in your space does not fluctuate too much. During the light hours, keep a temperature between 20°C-30°C. During the dark hours, you can lower this temperature to around 16°C. Make sure that the temperature difference between day and night is as small as possible. With temperature differences, you are in fact imitating the seasons. If the difference between day and night is too big or the nights too cold, it will take too long for the plant to recover. There is also a greater chance of mildew developing.

## The ideal air humidity for houseplants
One of the biggest problems in keeping plants indoors is spending weeks or months in a room with central heating or another artificial heating method. The good news is that we can prevent or cure humidity problems by knowing the needs of the plants and improving the humidity level of indoor plants.

The measurement of humidity is the so-called relative humidity, where water vapour is measured in relation to the number of water particles that can be found in a certain amount of air. Relative humidity is used to determine a comfortable level that is suitable for animals, people and plants.

So, what is the best humidity level for plants?  An ideal humidity level for most adult plants is 60% to 70%.  Some tropical plants are used to humidity levels of up to 90%.  Many succulents, such as cacti, only need 10% humidity.  As a general rule, plants with thicker leaves can tolerate lower humidity.

**•	80% - 90%:** these are tropical percentages. Plants, especially seedlings, growing in a greenhouse or conservatory can reach over 80%, but indoors this is actually impossible. For some plants, especially young plants or seedlings, this is ideal. For humans, however, it is not.  

**•	60% - 80%:** this is the ideal level for almost all (but especially tropical) indoor plants. However, it is difficult to maintain indoors.
 
**•	60% - 40%:** in summer, the air humidity in most homes is around this level, in which most indoor plants thrive. Some plants still need some help, for example by misting.

**•	10% - 40%:** below 40% it becomes very dry and these are probably the indoor levels when central and artificial heating is used. Cacti and succulents will do well, but most plants will have leaf problems.

To measure humidity in the home, it is advisable to purchase a hygrometer. A hygrometer measures the humidity in a room/area but often also the temperature, which is of course the ideal combination. 






![Temp 1.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/a0f4c0da847d1b59027a4c1ed2489768.webp)



## The signs of incorrect temperature or humidity

**Too low:**

- The edges or tips of the leaves turn brown
- Leaf edges turn yellow
- Leaves dry out and shrivel up/ curl up



**Too high:**

- Fungus/[Mildew](/care/diseases/mildew) on the leaves
- Fungus/Mildew on the potting soil
- Leaves and stems start showing signs of rot




![Temp 2.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/3805bc35fc31c6d66bbf35c2f5a8f8ea.webp)


## Tips for the right temperature and humidity 

### The right temperature:
1. *Use a (mini)greenhouse:* a greenhouse is an option to maintain the temperature around your plant(s).
2. *Beware of draughts:* in the winter you have to watch out for draughts, breezes and gusts of wind. To prevent your plants from falling victim to sudden temperature changes, place them away from vents, windows, doors or other places where air can enter from outside.
3. *Beware of overheating:* It is normal to want to protect your plants from the cold by turning up the thermostat, but too much heat can be just as big a threat to them.
4. *Group your plants together:* If you put your plants together in groups, the air and moisture is trapped between each of them. In this way they also keep each other a little warmer.

### The right humidity:
1. *Misting:* spraying/spraying the leaves with lukewarm water.
2. *Group your plants:* If you put plants together in groups, the air and moisture is trapped between each of them. They can also use each other's moisture from the soil. If you do this, you have to leave some (growing) space between the plants.
3. *Tray with pebbles or hydro grains:* The tray consists of small pebbles or hydro grains covered with water. The water should be just below the top of the pebbles so the plant does not suck up water and remains well aerated. 
4. *Humidifier:* a humidifier is a device that adds humidity to the air through evaporation.
5. *Hang your clothes out to dry:* you can also simply hang your clothes out to dry in the house (near your plants) after washing them. This increases the humidity in the air as the water evaporates from the clothes.
6. *Use a (mini)greenhouse:* A greenhouse is another option to maintain a higher humidity level for your plants. If you have tropical plants, low humidity can kill your plants.



Temperature and humdity

# Watering

Watering your houseplants sounds easy. Yet it is something that many people struggle with, especially when it comes to doing it the right way. There are so many factors that make it difficult to know exactly when and how often to water, let alone how much each plant needs. We would therefore like to help you get a better idea of how to water your plants correctly.


> 
## How much water does my plant need? 
Not all plants need the same amount of water, so if you are not sure how much yours needs, think again about where the plant is originally from. Many popular houseplants come from tropical regions where it rains regularly. These species usually have large leaves which require a lot of water to look good. Plants like these need more water than desert inhabitants like cacti and succulents, which often do better if you let the soil dry out between waterings.

The time of year can also make a difference. Many houseplants grow more in spring and summer but less in autumn and winter. If you notice that your plants grow less than usual, give them less water until they start growing more again. There are 3 requirements that you can divide houseplants into to make it a little clearer for yourself. These are the 3 requirements:
#
- **Heavy:** the potting soil of the plant must always remain moist. 
- **Average:** the potting soil of the plant should always be allowed to dry out before you water it again. Bear in mind that the soil can be dry on top, but not underneath.
- **Little:** you should always allow the plant's potting soil to dry out for a while.
#
Check our [care per family pages](/care/houseplants-family) to be more certain about how much water your plant needs.



![Watering.webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/5eb8bbf0869ce0a2fb17d369227dc50b.webp)



## What factors influence the water requirements of my plant?
As already mentioned, there really are many different factors influencing the ultimate water requirements of houseplants. We would like to let you know which factors these are:
#### 1. The size of the plant
A large houseplant will use much more water than a similar small houseplant. A houseplant with larger leaves will also consume more water.
#### 2. Size of the pot
The larger the pot, the more potting soil and the more water it can absorb and distribute.
#### 3. Type of soil/substrate the plant is growing in
There are special kinds of substrates that can absorb water much better, so these will ensure that a plant or actually the roots will not get too much water in one go. Check our page about the differences between [potting soil and substrates](/care/doctor/potting-soil-and-substrates) to be well informed about this!
#### 4. Position
The lighter the location of the houseplant, the more water the plant will use.
#### 5. Season
Many houseplants grow less in autumn and winter. If you notice that your plants grow less than usual, they will also use less water.
#### 6. Air conditioning and heating
Heating or air-conditioning causes the air humidity to drop, which in turn causes the houseplant to use more water. Regular spraying will also do the trick.


## When should I water my houseplants?
Once you have determined your plant's watering requirements, it's time to check how moist the soil is. This way you also know if it really is time to water your plant already.

- **Heavy:** has the top of the potting soil become a little paler and does soil no longer stick to your finger when you stick it in the soil to check? Then it is time to water your plant. It is best to give them a good 'tropical rain' in one go, so that the entire pot is thoroughly moist, after which it will slowly dry out again.
- **Average:** plants that need to be dry now and then get similar water in summer to the group above. The difference is that this category is not so quick to dry out. In winter, however, it is important that the soil is dry for a few days. Then wait for +/- 3 days before watering the plant. It is best to give them a good 'tropical rain' in one go, so that the whole pot is thoroughly moist, after which it will slowly dry out again.
- **Little:** has the watering been done at least a week ago and has the top of the potting soil become paler? Then wait at least 3 days (or longer) in summer and 3 weeks in winter before watering the plant.

## Ways of watering my houseplants
We would like to explain to you how you can water your plants. This is also possible in various ways!

### Watering can
The soil feels dry, so what now? You fill your watering can with water at room temperature. You might be tempted to just sprinkle a little water. This is so that you do not run the risk of over-watering. Unfortunately, this will not do your plants much good, because most of the roots are not directly on the soil surface. So it is better to give enough water and completely drench the soil around each plant. You do this by watering until the water starts to run out of the drainage holes in the pot. If you collect the extra water in a saucer, the soil around your plant will sometimes absorb a little more (the plant only does this if it needs it). Make sure that you throw away the saucer with water after about 10 minutes, otherwise the roots of your plant may start to rot and you don't want that!

### By roots
The roots of a plant are at the bottom of the pot. So, watering a little every day is pointless, because the water will never reach the lower roots. This way, the plant/roots can dry out and that is a shame of course. To make sure all roots get water, try watering 'from below'. For instance by placing your inner pot (with holes in the bottom) on a saucer (or another type of basin) and then pouring water into the saucer. Your plant will then suck up the required amount of water itself. So pour water into the saucer as often as necessary until the plant no longer sucks it up. This works especially well with smaller plants and pots.

Larger plants are easier to put in a bucket or other large container with water. Make sure the water reaches about halfway up the plant's pot. After a while (wait for an hour or more) the plant will have absorbed all this water. Keep an eye on the water in the bucket or container, it should become less and less. When this is no longer the case for 20 minutes, this is the sign that the plant has absorbed enough water.

### Water meter
To keep an eye on the water level of your plants, the use of water meters is quite a handy way. There are water meters that consist of a plastic tube with a sort of polystyrene float and a meter stick inside. As soon as the water meter comes into contact with water or damp soil, the polystyrene floats and the meter rises.

There are also water meters that change colour so you can see if the plant still has enough water or if it needs a little water again. Usually, the colour of the display changes from blue to red when watering is required. But our [Tessa water meter](/product/tessa-watermeter-l) changes to a white colour when she’d like a sip!

## What kind of water should I give my plant?
You think you have covered everything and then doubt suddenly sets in. Can I give my plants ordinary tap water? Yes you can, but... prepare your watering can at least 24 hours earlier, so the chlorine and fluoride can evaporate from the water and the water is also at room temperature before your plants get it. Tap water contains very small amounts of chlorine and fluoride and some plants are more sensitive to this than others. If your plant has brown spots/edges, it could be that it is caused by watering too often with chlorine and fluoride. 

If possible, give your plants rainwater. Rainwater contains more oxygen than tap water, so the plant can absorb nutrients even better. Do you have a rain barrel? Then drain the water in an empty bottle and let it come to room temperature for at least 24 hours. Do you have regular rain showers in your country? Then you could also put a bucket outside to catch the rainwater. 

The best thing for your plant is actually sparkling water. Yes, plants are actually quite demanding! The presence of carbon dioxide makes it easier for the roots to absorb the nutrients. This ensures better growth and development of the root system. Your plant will therefore grow faster and form more beautiful, greener and larger leaves. Only the best is good enough for your plant children, right?


## Tips on watering 
The biggest reason for plants to die is too much water and therefore root rot. It is for this reason that it is often better to give too little water than too much. Root rot is difficult to repair and dehydration only really occurs when plants are structurally without water for long periods.

The best and easiest way to check whether your plant needs water is to simply stick a finger or a wooden stick, at least 3 centimetres (watch out for the roots), into the potting soil. If the soil sticks to your finger or the wooden stick, it is still moist enough. If your finger/stick comes out clean, you know it's time (or almost time) to water your plant.

Another way to check your plants is by lifting the pot. A plant with dry soil does not weigh that much. After weighing it a few times, you will get a feeling for it and you will also be able to feel if the plant needs water by the weight of the pot.

The best time to water your plants is in the morning. If the leaves get wet then, they have all day to dry out. It is much harder for plant diseases to gain a foothold when the leaves are dry. If you cannot water in the morning, the best alternative is in the evening.

When you water your plant with a watering can from above, make sure that you water well around the plant. Do not water just one spot. Preferably not too close to the plant/the stem itself. There are many plants that do not like it when they get wet or stay wet for a long time. 

Last but not least, ALWAYS put your plant in a pot with a drainage hole. This allows excess water to drain away. Many beautiful pots do not have a drainage hole. So put your plant in an inner pot with holes that fits into that lovely decorative pot. This way, the plant is still in a good pot.



Watering

# Yellow leaves 

Is your green friend suddenly getting yellow leaves? That could be a sign that something is wrong with your beloved plant. A discolored leaf can have several causes and fortunately does not always have to mean something serious. In many cases you can help the plant to get rid of the yellow leaf. To do this, of course, you first need to know what is wrong with your plant friend. We are happy to help you make the right diagnosis.... 


> 
## Poor drainage or improper watering requirements
Too much or too little water is one of the main reasons behind yellow leaves. In soil that is too wet, roots cannot breathe properly. They suffocate, close themselves off and therefore can no longer transport water and nutrients that plants need. Too little water or even drought has a similar effect. With too little water, plants cannot absorb the essential nutrients they need, resulting in yellow leaves. 

Fortunately, preventing or solving a water problem can be super easy. It all starts with a well-drained soil. Always choose (grow) pots with drainage holes and keep a close eye on the saucer or plant pot. Always pour away excess water to prevent your plant from getting wet. If necessary, add organic material to improve soil structure and drainage. Read all about the perfect potting soil. 

Before you water your plant, the 'finger test' is a handy method to check whether your plant already needs water. Stick your finger a few inches into the soil and only water your plant if the soil feels dry.

## Pests or disease
Common pests such as spider mite, aphid or mealybug can cause yellow leaves. The sap-sucking insects puncture holes in the leaves, causing them to become yellow or misshapen. Most pests leave clear signs on the leaves, making it easy to recognize an infestation. So check your houseplants regularly for pests and do not forget the underside of the leaves, the stems and the potting soil. Have you spotted a pest? Place the plant in quarantine and read all about the pest on our PLNTSdoctor page!
Diseases can also cause yellow leaves in houseplants. Pathogens that cause root rot will generally cause the leaves to yellow and wilt. Other diseases can cause leaf spots of various colors. 

## Light
A lack of sunlight is a common cause of yellow leaves in houseplants. Especially if you place them away from a window, such as in the hallway. When a plant doesn't get enough light, photosynthesis will decrease causing the leaves to turn yellow. More light also means more photosynthesis: an easy solution!

For certain species [grow lights](/product/rudi-grow-light-bulb) can also be an option. 

## Heat and cold
Temperature also contributes to the color of the leaves. When it is too hot or too cold leaves can change color. Tropical plants are not used to the cold and also do not cope well with low temperatures or drafts. This in turn will cause leaves to yellow. Is your plant exposed to warm or cold temperatures for a longer period of time? Then the leaves will turn brown.  

## Nutrition
Yellow leaves on plants can also be a good indication of their [nutrition](/product/plnts-nutrition-500ml). Common nutrition problems are under- or over-fertilization. So it's important to pay close attention to how much fertilizer you can use. Often plant enthusiasts tend to give a little more so their plant can grow nicely. Unfortunately, in this way you create a toxic environment which 'burns' the leaves of your plant, so to speak, and eventually causes them to turn yellow. 

## Old leaf
Luckily, a yellow leaf does not always mean that something serious is going on. Does a leaf occasionally turn yellow on the underside of your plant? Then your plant probably just wants to get rid of its old leaves in order to make new beautiful leaves again! 
Unfortunately, yellow leaves can't turn green again. The best thing you can do if your plant is suffering from yellow leaves is to cut them off so your plant can focus all of its attention on growing new, green leaves!


![Yellow leaves .webp{1748x993}](https://plnts-api.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/main/38b6c9f53e819b4d8c4e5cee114aa096.webp)



Doctor

Doctor

Hi, I’m Emma, your PLNTS.com guide!